I made these cotton rounds a while back but decided to wait posting this DIY before I had tried them out a few times and washed them more than once.
So, for this DIY I used some soft cotton flanell fabric. Each round has two layers and the edges are sewn with a zigzag stitch. I went over most of them twice with the sewing machine. On the ones I where I for some reason one sewed the edges once, you can see some fraying. So, if you do this, make sure you go over the edges at least twice.
There’s A LOT of cutting and sewing involved in this project, but I think it’s worth it… I was noticing how the disposable cotton pads I used was building up in my trash can, It became noticeable when my co-op (finally) decided to add a recycling station in the area and I was able to recycle almost everything, cottons rounds and a few other things being the exception. So, I decided to make some that are washable and I can honestly say they are working great, and it feels great to not throw them away after one use. I made quite a few of them so I think they will last for years.
The only slightly inconvenient thing with these is when I’ve washed them and I have what feels like thousands of little cotton things to dry (I haven’t tried popping them in the dryer yet) but they dry fast so I guess it’s not a huge problem. The problem is probably me waiting way to long to wash them and thus having 3768 cotton rounds to wash at the same time. Oh, and I wash them in a washing bag along with towels and bed linen.
For this DIY I used black fimo effect clay, make-up glitter, metal wire, a brooch needle, pliers and some thicker needles to use for sculpting details. I also used fimo gloss varnish.
I used the wire to make a skeleton for my beetle.
I also attached the brooch pin to the skeleton.
When I felt that the skeleton base had a good shape I started to add clay to it.
I used a needle to add details.
Before baking the brooch in my oven, I added some purple/green body glitter to it. This NYX body glitter is made from aluminium, so it is oven safe.
At first I was planning on putting on the glitter with a brush, but ended up dabbing it on with my fingertips.
After baking it, I let it cool for a while before coating in with a few layers of varnish.
This is my third post on how to make a kimono top. Back in 2012 I did this oversized kimono wrap top and then in 2013 I made a kimono winter coat in wool. I’m not going into depth with this tutorial as that would just be a repeat of my previous posts.
I made this kimono very quickly. The only thing you really need to succeed with this project is a few measurements for the sleeves. You can basically make them as wide as you want, the only thing to think about here is whether you want to wear your kimono top with a belt or not. If you want to use a belt you should make sure the sleeves do not reach past your waist. That would make the top really weird and constricting.
Here’s a photo of me measuring the width of my sleeves. I’m not planning on wearing mine with a belt but decided that I wanted the sleeves slightly above my waistline anyway.
I marked down my measurement on the fabric. I got 13.5 inches. Btw, my measuring tape is great, it has inches on one side and centimetres on the other! It makes following American DIY tutorials A LOT easier…
And here I am checking to see where I want my sleeves to begin.
Marking that down too so I could see how far I would cut the fabric.
Aaaand, here it is cut! I of course also cut up the middle of the front to get an opening. I then sewed all edges and I was done.
Here’s a quick DIY tip from me to you. Find some stretchy, preferably knit, fabric and make a miniskirt without any pattern in mere hours!
-You’ll need two pieces of stretchy fabric. The two pieces should be wide enough to go over your hip when pinned together and long enough to get about 5 cm, or two inches, of seam allowance for the waist and hem. I pinned the two pieces together inside out and put them on. Pinned the whole thing to fit me and (carefully) slipped it off. Evened out the sides to get the same curve on both and quickly stitched the pieces together.
-I put on the skirt again just to check if the fit was good, and tight, enough.
– Sewed the pieces together on my machine with the overlock stretch stitch (any stretch stitch will work). The waist and hem folds I loosely stitched by hand because I figured they had to be able to stretch the most. Here’s a photo of the skirt finished and inside out.
And then I made another skirt, this time in a black velvet type of stretch fabric. Instead of pinning it into the shape I wanted I decided to just use the first skirt to draw an outline where the stitches should go and then sew the two pieces together. Just like the first one I hand stitched the hem and waist folds.
And then I made this skirt that is a little more advanced but I still made without a pattern. I got the general shape from an already existing skirt and then tailored it to fit me bit by bit. Took more than a few hours to make though… The leather buttons I used are oooooold. My grandfather had them on a coat in the 1950’s!